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Macedonia’s highest city is the idea environment for the vital paragliding community in the country, but barriers remain for it to consolidate as a destination for alternative tourism

29/05/2017 -  Ilcho Cvetanoski

Nested high in the mountains, at the average altitude of around 1,350 metres above sea level, Kruševo overlooks the Pelagonia Valley and its two major cities – Bitola and Prilep. This small town of less than 5,000 inhabitants, situated in the southwest of the Republic of Macedonia, is rich in history, well-preserved 19th-century traditional architecture and beautiful nature. But what makes Kruševo even more unique is the potential for a first-class paragliding experience for pilots of all levels.

Cheap, tasty, and unspoiled

Talking about tourism in Macedonia almost always leads the conversation towards Ohrid. The Ohrid Lake and the town of Ohrid  are protected by the UNESCO  as a world natural and cultural heritage site – the lake was listed for its environmental value in 1979, and the town for its cultural value a year later. Therefore, it is no wonder that the Ohrid Lake is considered as the main tourist site in Macedonia. However, over the last few years, so-called alternative tourism is thriving as one of the possible areas for further economic growth. Together with hiking, biking, and ecotourism, paragliding is among the most promising areas for development of the country’s alternative tourism.

Kruševo and its paragliding opportunities were recently listed as one of Macedonia's top natural and historic treasures  by National Geographic. In the top-ten list, right after the Ohrid Lake and before the painted mosque in Tetovo, Kruševo's “prime conditions for paragliding” are emphasized. The town's gifts have recently been celebrated also by the web-magazine Cross Country  , a specialised publication for paragliding, praising Kruševo’s ideal environment.

“Unusually, the town sits in a natural bowl on the ridge top, so launch is an easy walk from there. The grassy take-off sits above wooded slopes that drop down to the Pelagonia plain, stretching south to the Greek border”, reads the web-magazine, adding that the best flying conditions are from June to September. In case of bad weather or family vacations, attractions for the non-flying tourists include “several museums, the Ilinden uprising monument, monasteries, and the ruins of the Roman town of Heraclea Lyncestis in the town of Bitola”.

Also, “in the mountains there are good mountain-biking trails and Prilep has become known as one of the best bouldering areas in the world”, the author adds, pointing out the capacities for cheap accommodation with plenty of guest houses and hotels, not to mention the many cheap eateries.

A vibrant paragliding community

Local paragliding websites  advertise Kruševo as one of the world's most attractive places for cross-country paragliding, highlighting the “unspoiled nature”, the quality of food, and nice accommodation for the pilots, “much cheaper than any other European location”.

Baki Shakirovski, a paraglider since 1994 and former leader of the Macedonian national team, confirms that Kruševo is regarded as one of the world's better established paragliding locations, but it is not the only one in the area. According to Shakirovski, Popova Šapka at Šar Planina near Tetovo, Vodno and Skopska Crna Gora near Skopje, and mountain Galicica between lakes Ohrid and Prespa are also excellent locations for paragliding.

“Macedonia has plenty of sunny, calm days. The infrastructure is good and landing zones are well connected with the roads”, explains Shakirovski, who describes Macedonia's flying community as “a small, but vibrant”, with “paragliding clubs in every major town”.

One of these paragliding clubs is Vertigo, in Skopje. Member Sasho Smilevski argues that further developing paragliding tourism would require a set of institutional measures.

“All taking-off and landing spots need to be registered at the Civil Aviation Agency. Also, all spots should be properly levelled and marked with information tables".

Smilevski also points out that Kruševo is recognised as a first-class location and stresses how it offers a lot to do for the whole family as well as for flyers.

“Kruševo, together with the near sites like Ohrid, Bitola, and the national park of Galicica, can offer an active vacation for the whole family. Tourists who are not professional paragliders can experience tandem flying above the lakes or enjoy swimming. In this category last year we registered around 1600 stays”, Smilevski said.

Vladimir Barakovski, president of the Aeronautical Federation of Macedonia, points out that Kruševo hosted the 2016 European championships  in both hang gliding and paragliding. “It will also host the 16th World championship in August 2019. This is evidence of the huge potential of Kruševo and Macedonia in this sector”, Barakovski said.

For paragliding tourism to be at the top level, investments are needed besides the natural beauties. Unfortunately, “institutions are not investing enough for the development of this sport and the promotion of Macedonia as a destination for flying”, concludes Barakovski.

Obstacles to paragliding tourism

With this fully-fledged set of locations and actors nurturing the culture of paragliding in the country, it is no surprise that the President of the Paragliding World Cup association (PWC) is Macedonian Goran Dimishkovski, who now lives abroad.

In an e-mail conversation, Dimishkovski confirmed the country's assets – the low prices which make it very affordable for flying, the climate, and the nature. But that is not enough.

“Kruševo has the potential to grow into an important destination for paragliding, but unfortunately it hasn't yet”, Dimishkovski points out.

At the same time, he was highly skeptical towards the possibility of further development of paragliding tourism.

“With the well-known mentality and attitude towards tourists and tourism in general, I could say that there is almost no hope for further development of paragliding tourism. What we lack is education, infrastructure, investments, respect towards experts, etc.”, Dimishkovski concludes.

Nice article by National Geographic!

A crossroads between East and West, this tiny country is a treasure chest of historical monuments, natural wonders, and vibrant culture.

By Avery Stonich

Macedonia might be one the world's most fascinating, and underpublicized, places. A former Yugoslavian republic, this tiny country—barely bigger than Vermont—is tucked between Greece, Albania, and Bulgaria on the Balkan Peninsula.

Modern-day Macedonia is a melting pot of Persian, Greek, Roman, Ottoman, Serbian, and Soviet flavors. Friends linger over coffee in outdoor cafes as throaty Slavic chatter drifts amid curls of cigarette smoke and clinking glasses of rakija. Rounded domes of Orthodox Christian churches share the skyline with towers of Muslim mosques, limestone-crusted mountains rise over quiet villages, and glittering lakes punctuate the wild countryside.

Whether you’re a city-dweller or outdoor adventurer, here are 10 reasons to plan a trip to Macedonia:

HIKE MOUNT LJUBOTEN

The Shar Mountains rise to the clouds for 994 miles along northwestern Macedonia, reaching upwards of 8,000 feet. Mount Ljuboten’s prominent pointy peak (8,196 feet) demands attention. The five-hour hike to the top can be completed in a day. Villa Ljuboten Mountain Resort, a simple guesthouse perched at the treeline, at an elevation of 5,500 feet, is a great base. From there, follow soft, wildflower-dotted meadows to the windy summit. Soak in fantastic views of Macedonia and Kosovo before returning to the villa, where a warm fire and the hearty aroma of a home-cooked feast greet weary hikers.

EXPLORE SKOPJE

Home to more than half a million people, Macedonia’s capital is a quirky blend of old and new. The first landmark to catch your eye is the 217-foot-high Millennium Cross, which crowns Vodno Mountain. A cable car whisks sightseers to the summit for easy viewing.

Also commanding attention is Kale Fortress, which has been presiding over the city since the sixth century A.D. Amble up the hill to venture inside the walls, partially built with stones from Scupi, a nearby ancient Roman city that has been crumbling into red poppy fields since an earthquake in A.D. 518.

A short stroll brings you to Skopje’s downtown square, a unique medley of architectural styles. The scene is a product of Skopje 2014, a $700 million government project intended to spruce up the city. Instead, it earned kudos for being kitsch. Looming statues—including a huge Alexander the Great—are juxtaposed against baroque and neoclassical buildings and an Arc de Triomphe. Spouting fountains and colored lights add to the pizazz.

Cross the Stone Bridge and explore the Old Bazaar, where narrow, cobblestone streets have been alive with commerce since the 12th century.

SLITHER THROUGH A CAVE

Macedonia's limestone karst landscape is like Swiss cheese, riddled with more than 300 caves. Don a spelunking suit and squeeze through a small hole in the rocks to enter the underworld at Gorna Slatinska, a quarter-mile labyrinth that lets you through only if you’re willing to slither. By light of a headlamp, duck under eerie stalactites and dodge tiny bats that dangle from the ceiling. The local caving society, Ursus Speleos, researches caves in the area and can show you what they’ve found.

ROCK CLIMB OR KAYAK IN MATKA CANYON

Less than 10 miles from Skopje is Matka Canyon, where the Treska River weaves past limestone cliffs before pooling in the emerald Matka Lake. Drive to the end of the road and nab a table on a stone terrace at the Canyon Matka Hotel’s lakefront restaurant. Rent a kayak and paddle upriver to Vrelo Cave, a deep chasm with lit pathways and wooden steps that leads to underground lakes. For those with less pep, motorboat tours are available.

Matka Canyon is also a magnet for rock climbers. A 40-minute hike leads to popular routes, many near the tiny Monastery of St. Nicholas Shishovski. If you’re not up for scaling rock walls, take a seat on the cliffhanger deck and watch. Macedonia Experience can show you around.

HIKE THE HILLS OF MAVROVO NATIONAL PARK

Mavrovo is Macedonia’s largest national park, cradling the country’s highest peak: the 9,068-foot Mount Korab. Bears, lynx, wolves, deer, and 129 bird species roam the rolling forest and highlands of the park. Base yourself at Hotel Tutto, which is tucked into a hillside in the Radika River Valley. From there you can explore the park by foot, horse, mountain bike, or kayak. Winter is also a good time to visit—with your skis in tow.

DIVE INTO HISTORY IN OHRID

Click your heels in Ohrid and you might think you’ve been transported to the Mediterranean. The crystal clear waters of Ohrid—one of the world’s oldest lakes—date back more than a million years. Tucked along the lush, hilly shore is the city of Ohrid, home to 56,000 people and one of the oldest settlements in Europe. The entire region is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage property.

Ohrid’s importance in religious history is evident in dozens of historic churches and monasteries, such as the Church of Saint John at Kaneo, which occupies a prominent perch on the edge of the lake. While stunning, it might be outdone by St. Panteleimon, the world’s oldest Slav monastery, where the intricate rockwork has been meticulously restored.

Wander the bustling streets of the Old Bazaar before venturing farther afield. To the south, Galicica National Park straddles a big hump between Ohrid and Prespa Lakes, which can be viewed from the 7,395-foot peak of Magaro Peak. Afterward, hop on a boat at Prespa Lake to Golem Grad, also called Snake Island. Yes, there are snakes, and more than 200 species of birds, including pelicans. Also check out the beautiful frescoes in the 14th-century St. Peter’s Church.

PARAGLIDE KRUSEVO’S THERMALS

Krusevo, Macedonia’s highest city at an elevation of more than 4,400 feet, is nestled along a ridge that rises from the broad Pelagonia Valley, a geography that creates steady updrafts perfect for paragliding. Colorful wings paint the sky like brushstrokes—swirling, climbing, and gliding. Conditions are so prime that the World Air Sports Federation held the European Paragliding Championship here in 2016. If you’re looking to learn or give it a whirl, Heli XC can assist.

VISIT THE PAINTED MOSQUE

Every other religious monument in Macedonia might pale in comparison to the Painted Mosque, a 15th-century masterpiece in Tetovo. The exterior’s vibrant pattern of rectangular paintings framing lattice windows is just a hint of the grandeur within. Slip off your shoes and step inside. Your jaw might drop at the sight of the swirling geometric artwork that covers every inch of the walls and balconies.

INDULGE IN FOOD AND DRINK

One thing is for certain in Macedonia: You won’t go hungry. Forget about the clock at mealtime and prepare for a feast. Macedonian cuisine blends Turkish, Mediterranean, and Balkan themes. Burek, or “salty pie,” is a mainstay— a warm, doughy treat filled with spinach or cheese. It often starts a meal, along with ajvar (a red pepper and garlic sauce) and shopska salad of tomato, onion, cucumber, and green pepper topped with tangy sheep cheese.

Don’t be fooled into thinking the starters are the whole meal. The main course might be a hearty bean stew, peppers stuffed with ground meat, grilled lamb, or perhaps all three. Pair it with fine wine from one of the country’s 84 wineries—or your host’s home brew.

The national drink is rakija—a fiery brandy that burns your throat. You might have one too many, as Macedonians seem to find many reasons to say cheers.

MEET FOR COFFEE

“Meet for coffee” in Macedonia is actually code for coffee, beer, dinner, or even just hanging out. Macedonians love to socialize. Meet someone new, and you might make a friend for life.

Avery Stonich is a freelance writer based in Boulder, Colorado. She has traveled to more than 50 countries in search of adventure. Visit her website at averystonich.com and follow her on Twitter and Instagram.

Text taken from Lonely Planet

Macedonians will proudly reel off to visitors that Ohrid once had 365 churches – one for every day of the year. Yet in truth, the church spires and their bellowing bells are just one facet of this lakeside diamond, which lures city-dwelling locals for summer hijinks and Balkans backpackers gasping for a splash of water in a landlocked country.

Although Ohrid town is the beating heart of the lake, the area’s charms extend well beyond its beloved old quarter. At 300m deep, 34km long and three million years old, Lake Ohrid is among Europe’s oldest and deepest lakes. Surrounding its shores, ancient settlements, mountain villages and glorious monasteries whisper stories that have endured more than a thousand years. No trip here would be complete without some out-of-town exploration.

Friday

Spend the morning climbing and tumbling back down Ohrid’s cobbled lanes. This town was made for strolling, and most streets gravitate back to the water. As you explore, take notice of the delightful ‘mini-me’ street lights, which mimic the town’s distinctive traditional houses. Also look out for its one-of-a-kind pearl shops, particularly Antica (ohridpearl.com) on Kosta Abras. Ohrid’s unique simulant of the gem is created using the scales of a fish endemic to the lake.

Morning is the best time to catch the unusual bolnička (hospital) churches with their doors open. These low-lying, high-walled adjacent structures are thought to date from the 14th century and barely look like churches at all, though their insides are heaving with frescoes and icon figures. A grim fact, given how petite they are, is that the churches were used as quarantine facilities in times of plague.

Grab your swimwear before heading out for lunch in Kaneo, a traditional fishing village that has long since been swallowed whole by Ohrid’s old town boundaries. Work up an appetite by tackling the gorgeous water-licking boardwalk en route; its start is hidden down an alley behind the Sveta Sofija cathedral, like a door to beachside Narnia. Take a dip or grab a deckchair along the shingle beach, but when hunger calls head to Letna Bavča Kaneo and order a dish of diminutive fried plasnica, the selfsame fish that’s used to make Ohrid’s famous pearls. Locals eat them whole – like whitebait, but meatier.

After lunch, make the westerly ascent up to Ohrid’s pin-up Church of Sveti Jovan to contemplate the view and admire the frescoed interior (dress respectfully). Continue up to Plaošnik, where the pretty Church of Sveti Kliment i Pantelejmon plays second fiddle to some remarkable 5th-century basilica ruins and a garden of mosaic relics. Church-hopping sated, return to Kaneo for a quick boat ride back to Ohrid’s harbour area.

In the evening follow the Europop sounds to the small crowd of lake-lapping bars on Kosta Abras: Liquid is undoubtedly the classiest of the pack, perfect for sunset drinks and beyond with the style-hunters of Macedonia. If this feels too try-hard, make for prohibition-style Jazz Inn (en-gb.facebook.com) down a nearby back alley instead. During Ohrid’s extremely popular Summer Festival, seemingly the whole country descends to catch a concert at one of the historic venues around town – join them at Ohrid’s Hellenistic hillside amphitheatre, if you can.

Saturday

Hop on a morning bus headed for Sveti Naum Monastery – your ultimate destination – but ask to be let off at the Bay of Bones for some time travel at the Museum on Water. This remarkable place is a reconstruction of a prehistoric pile settlement, the remains of which have been uncovered at the bottom of the lake beneath the site. If this has your interest piqued, Diving Center Amfora (amfora.com.mk) can take you down below (beginners welcome) to sniff out relics on the lake bed.

Continuing south, Sveti Naum is surrounded by some of the lake’s sandiest beachfront and one of the best swimming areas. Consequently, the monastery site slightly unexpectedly pits holy reverence against deckchairs and buzzing summer beach cafes. But – dare we say it – that’s what makes it such a fun day out. The church itself is a multi-domed Byzantine goody with a 17th-century iconostasis, 16th- and 19th-century frescoes and some (slightly cranky) guardian peacocks. Outside, boatmen run trips to irrepressible natural springs bubbling up from the nearby lake bed. Restaurant Ostrovo (restoranostrovo.com.mk), within the complex, is right by the entrance to the springs and offers the wistful experience of dining on a moored pontoon.

Boats return to Ohrid directly from the monastery at 4pm. Travelling by car? You’re in luck: the coastal road back to Ohrid is ripe for exploration. The hidden bar at Orevche beach, down a snaking shrubby coastal trail off the road (look for the sign), is a real find. Take another dip accompanied by prowling petite fish, grab a day bed for sunset with the local Zlaten Dab beer and feel a bit smug that you’ve managed to escape the crowds.

Sunday

Crowned by the walkable Magaro peak (2254m), the shaggy mane of Galičica National Park unfurls east of Lake Ohrid, putting mountainous villages and hiking trails within half an hour’s touch of Ohrid town. Here it’s possible to cast yourself adrift by paraglide – the biggest adrenaline rush you’re likely to get on a lake with no water sports. Or you can visit a lake-view Galičica village for lunch or a sunset dinner of Macedonian specialities such as pita (a flaky coiled pastry stuffed with cheese and spinach) and tavče gravče (spiced baked beans served in earthenware). Book through Free Pass Ohrid (freepassohrid.mk).

Food is one of Macedonia’s crowning glories, but if you want to taste traditional cuisine there are better places than Ohrid’s old town: how about a secluded mountain village famed for its homemade sausage, nettle pies and slow-roasted meats? Welcome to Vevčani – an underrated rural bolthole north of the lake where locals quietly disappear to eat and stroll amid gurgling springs. Packed with creaking historic country houses, home to a rambunctious annual carnival (exploringmacedonia.com/vevcani-carnival) and watched over by a pretty church, it’s a window into a very different side of life around the lake. Eat at wood-beamed Kutmichevica (kutmicevica.com.mk) in the upper part of the village, from where sublime views enable you to survey Lake Ohrid one last time before you travel home.

Make it happen

Lake Ohrid’s St Paul the Apostle Airport, 10km north of Ohrid town, is handling a growing number of international flights, particularly from the UK. The town is also well served by frequent daily buses from the capital Skopje, and daily international buses to Albania, Serbia and Montenegro. Of all Ohrid’s old town hotels, Villa Jovan has the most character and the best location. No matter where you stay, book well ahead for travel during the Summer Festival (12 July to 20 August).

SOURCE: Lonely Planet